Malta and Italy: Where to Spend Your Beach and City Days
Beach days, city stops and everything worth booking.
Italy will always be a place I return to. Malta? That was Gabe’s request—and after years of him asking to add it to our annual September trip, I finally said yes. I’m so glad I did.
We spent two weeks exploring Malta and Gozo before eating our way through Milan, Venice, Umbria and Rome. This guide covers where to stay, eat and wander, plus a few honest misses and lessons learned (hello, beach ropes).
My biggest tip: start with the beach days. A week in Malta gave us time to unwind and adjust to the time difference. By the time we reached Italy, we were rested and ready to explore.
MALTA & GOZO
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Ancient walled cities, crystal-clear water and a slower pace—Malta deserves a spot on your list.
We split our time between two stops:
Gozo: Malta’s smaller, quieter sister island. Start here for laid-back days and beautiful beaches with room to spread out.
Valletta: Malta’s capital. Come for the history, great food and gorgeous streets best explored on foot.
The order I’d recommend: Gozo first, then Valletta. Ease into the trip on the island before picking up the pace in the city.
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Go for the beaches, laid-back Mediterranean vibes and fresh seafood.
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Simple, clean and everything we needed for beach days and relaxed evenings. Breakfast was included - a basic, no-frills buffet.
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The best fried calamari I’ve had, plus delicious shrimp pasta. Add a crisp white wine or a Cisk, the local lager.
Go for the starters! We loved the scallops and bacon-wrapped dates. The pasta and pork mains were fine, but neither was a favorite.
A super-cute bar where we stopped for a Campari and a Cisk. A fun spot for a drink break.
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Red sand, warm water, umbrella rentals and a cafe serving beer and wine. It’s busy, but the vibes are great. The bottom is rocky, so bring water shoes!
My favorite day on Gozo. This gorgeous beach at the point has white rocks instead of sand, chair and umbrella rentals, and a food truck selling cold beers. There’s a ladder into the water, so no water shoes needed. It was quiet, never crowded, and walking distance from our hotel. Pure bliss and relaxation.
We spent an evening wandering the Citadel and the cathedral of the Assumption.
We happened to be in town for a big festival celebrating Victory Day, with a procession of Maria Bambina. It was so festive and such a fun surprise with packed streets, fireworks and high energy.
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Malta is a sun-soaked Mediterranean island with ancient walled streets, crystal-clear water and great food.
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Breakfast was included and made fresh to order, and it was delicious. Location was incredible, staff was amazing and super helpful in recommending things to do. Our room was awesome and even had a private entrance.
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Japanese with excellent sushi, cool vibes and great service.
Italian with great service and awesome wine. We started with grilled calamari, then had an amazing white fish cooked in a salt crust and a lobster pasta.
We had my birthday lunch here and it was excellent. Sardines with beets sounds odd, but it was unreal. The risotto was incredible, and the steak and white fish were amazing too. It’s a homey, local-feeling spot with good service.
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The walled capital sits right on the water, with ancient streets, history everywhere, great restaurants and cute cafes. We saw the Triton Fountain, plenty of gorgeous churches and ancient ruins. It was SO hot, so stay hydrated. We were not prepared for that heat!
A local recommended this beach club, which has chairs for rent, a bar and a restaurant. You get in the water from a ladder, so no water shoes needed. There’s a roped-off water polo court right at the entry, and there were no signs warning you to stay away from the ropes. Stinging hydroids (relatives of jellyfish) live on them, and one grazed my backside. I had hours of intense pain. Learn from me: stay away from the ropes at any beach! We had drinks and got in and out of the water all day. It was a great relaxing day and fun to be around all the happenings!
ITALY
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Italy is a place I’ll never get tired of returning to. Every region feels different, and each visit brings something new to discover. The food, the history, the art (and the people who make it all come alive) keep me coming back.
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One night in Milan? Basically a crime. I fell in love with this gorgeous, lively city, and we barely scratched the surface. We didn’t make it to La Scala, the famous opera house, so I already have a reason to return.
My advice: give Milan more than one night.
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We flew from Malta into Milan, so we HAD to stay one night. This hotel was trendy, beautiful, modern, super cool and right next to the Duomo. I’d absolutely stay here again. LOVED!
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The beef tartare with a breaded fried egg was unreal, and the homemade pastas and tiramisu were divine. Great staff and the place is beautiful.
Located in the must-see Galleria this place is an absolute must. I’ve been obsessed with Campari for 15 years, so this was SO fun for me.
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We made 3 trips because WOW. On our walk after dinner, a big section of the piazza was gated off and hundreds of couples of all ages were dancing tango and waltz. Incredible.
The Galleria & Brera
The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is gorgeous and filled with all the designer stores. Fun fact: It’s home to the original Prada store! Brera has local vibes and fun bars. We ran out of time for La Scala, so that’s another reason to return!
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Venice is every bit as magical as everyone says, and maybe even more. It’s stunning, different from anywhere else, and truly one of a kind. The food was amazing too, despite what you may have heard. If you only visit one place in Italy, make it this one. It’s a must, and one of the most special places I’ve ever been.
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Super cute and excellent location. Right in Dorsoduro (the more local neighborhood) and right on the canal. Breakfast wasn’t included, but it’s affordable and good. It was a little strange, but our room was one of two located in the lobby. Thankfully it was quiet and not an issue.
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The best classic lasagna I’ve ever had, plus a delicious shrimp and lobster pasta. Cute, local feel, great service.
Mostly seafood and excellent. Get the original peach bellini (not sweet at all!), and don’t freak out, but yes, order the fish lasagna. It was unreal.
Also loved
Gelati Nico, aperitivo at The Corner Pub, great wine and snacks stop at Hotel La Fenice, and a drink in Piazza San Marco. Overpriced, but you just gotta do it, and any cafe will do.
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Walk, walk, walk. Venice was a dream and I fell in love immediately. Everyone warned me I’d get lost, but I always knew where I was. How did they build a city in the middle of the water that long ago?!
San Marco Basilica is like nothing else. The Peggy Guggenheim Collection is small but so cool. I’m always happy when I get to see a Dalí.
We got a pair of the famous handcrafted Venetian fruilane (velvet slippers) at Piedaterre Venezia. Now we have very comfy, very cool house shoes. Get a pair!
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Umbria, the green heart of Italy, was a region I’d been dying to explore. The stunning countryside is filled with fresh truffles, red wine, and pork. Enough said.
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Orvieto for one night. A simple little spot with no frills to rest before heading further into Umbria.
Located near Umbertide this place was like stepping into a dream, and probably my favorite stay of the whole trip. This converted 12th-century monastery is a stunning but cozy boutique hotel with a gorgeous pool, and we didn’t leave the property for two days. The staff made you feel like family. Breakfast was included, with most items from their garden (I got the green omelet with fresh herbs every morning). The best part about the breakfast was they had drip coffee!!! This is impossible to find in Europe and I’m sorry but an americano is just not the same. It was also probably one of the best black drip coffees I’ve ever had. Dinners were impeccable: the T-bone steak is a must, and the handmade pastas with shaved truffles and homemade Bolognese were divine and not too rich. I cannot say enough good things about this place and experience. I am already plotting my return!
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Il Castello di Bittarelli Luca
In Città della Pieve, a stop on our drive to the VocMos and so incredible. We had house-made pasta with fresh truffles and sausage, and a plate of grilled pork. Simple, homey, delicious.
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Orvieto
A walled medieval town perched on a hill, with one of the most ornate and massive Duomos ever. You must experience it!
Assisi
We only had time for a quick stroll on our way out leaving VocMos, but this hill town overlooking a gorgeous valley was stunning. I’m so glad I got to see it and will definitely go back for a couple nights next trip to Umbria.
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I absolutely love this city. It had been 8 years since my last visit, and being back was so special. The hustle and bustle is part of the charm, and everything you see is stunning. The people are so kind, the history is everywhere, the food is unreal and you’re in awe of the city and everything it has to offer from the moment you arrive. I don’t care if its packed with tourists, its such a special place.
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Absolutely stunning, like a work of art. It’s a former 18th-century Franciscan monastery turned radically minimalist “anti-hotel,” a quiet sanctuary in the middle of the city. It’s entirely travertine (even the toilets!), with an ancient fountain in the bar that the whole place was designed around. It’s close to everything and around the corner from our favorite restaurants.
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A cheese flight with good wine is a great way to pregame dinner at Santo Palato, they're right next door!
One of the faves of the trip: inventive, funky and just excellent, in a very local neighborhood outside the old walled city. The service felt a little “too cool,” but they warmed up by the end.
The best mutton I’ve ever had, with the best sommelier and service. (We couldn’t get into Roscioli Salumeria, since it was booked weeks ahead.)
Roscioli Antico Forno and Pasticceria
Separate locations around the corner from each other. We went multiple times for the supli, the pizza, porchetta and prosciutto di parma, plus breakfast with a maritozzo every morning. They’re so, so good!
Also loved: Forno in Campo de’ Fiori for pizza and supli, Jewish artichokes in the Ghetto, a drink near the Pantheon at Osteria di Agrippa, an expensive but worth-it drink at Hotel de Russie, and a lively evening in Trastevere. Pop into any bar in Tastevere that speaks to you, it's a fun time.
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The Musts
We walked all over: the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Castel Sant’Angelo and Ponte Sant’Angelo (super special!), and the Vatican City. Fun fact: Rome has more ancient Egyptian obelisks than any city in the world- even more than the entire country of Egypt.
It’s gated off now and you have to pay to get close. I’m so glad I got to see it before the changes. It is always such an incredible thing to experience.
Villa Borghese Park and Villa Medici
Gorgeous park with lots to do and see. The Villa Medici is a 16th-century palace owned by France since 1803, and it hosts artists and writers for residencies today. We did a guided tour. The guide was great, but you don’t see much, so I’d skip it. The park was beautiful and really nice to stroll through with insane views over the whole city.
Wish we could have done the Borghese Gallery, it was sold out, so book tickets in advance!
Shopping
Prices are better in Rome, and you get your tax back at the airport. We shopped near the Spanish Steps, stocked up on T’s and pants for Gabe at COS and I finally got a little bag I’d coveted for years.
We stayed here our first time in Rome. The farmers market this time was so cute and packed.
TRAVEL TIPS
Malta
Download Bolt, the local ride app. It’s cheap, rides are quick and easy to get, and unless you rent a car you’ll use it constantly. Uber exists but costs a lot more.
Leaving Gozo for Valletta? Take the fast boat. It drops you right in Valletta. We took the ferry to a different port, then a 45-minute Bolt ride, which cost more and took way longer.
Pack water shoes for the rocky beaches, and stay away from the ropes at any beach.
Italy
Make dinner reservations everywhere. I prefer to be spontaneous, but it just doesn’t work anymore.
Expect train delays. Something always happens (we had a two-hour one in Milan). It’s part of the experience!
Getting to Orvieto by train from the north? Take the high-speed train to Rome, then backtrack for about an hour and a half.
In Venice, take the vaporetto with the locals from the train station to your hotel. Skip the gondolas and expect crowds. Go soon, because it’s sinking!
Do coffee the Italian way: stand at the counter, shoot your espresso, pay and go.
Both Countries
Hydrate and expect heat and crowds. September used to be shoulder season, but Malta and Italy were both super hot, and Rome was crowded. Travel is about experiencing things, even being uncomfortable at times. Just go with it!